Pimm's Cup is proof that premixed cocktails just won’t go away, despite the fact that no one admits to drinking them. They were never really stylish in America, since they conjured up images of brown bags, bums and convenience store parking lots; in this age of designer libations, they seem to suggest laziness, as well as a lack of imagination and taste. Even so, they turn up like the unwanted dinner guest. At the recent convention of the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America in Las Vegas, one of the flashy “new products” was something called Twist In A Glass, which contained a precise amount of mixer (Margarita, Cosmo, etc.) in a cocktail glass, just waiting for the customer’s alcohol of choice.
In the U.K., though, Pimm’s Cup has been a fixture of society for nearly two
centuries. It started in 1823, when James Pimm began serving a concoction of
gin, quinine and herbs at his central London oyster bar. Commercial production
began in the 1850s, and by the turn of the century there was a chain of Pimm’s
Oyster Houses in the English capital. In addition to the original (known as
Pimm’s No. 1 Cup), the company produced five other mixtures in its heyday: No.
2 (Scotch), No. 3 (brandy), No. 4 (rum), No. 5 (rye) and No. 6 (vodka).
Pimm’s was purchased by Diageo in 2006. The No. 1 Cup is a staple, but the only
others currently made are a variation on No. 3 (called Pimm’s Winter Cup) and a
small amount of No. 6. Still, Pimm’s Cup remains a stylish drink in the U.K. It
is popular at Wimbledon and the Henley Royal Regatta, and is customarily served
at polo matches both here and in England. It is sometimes mixed with Champagne
(called a Pimm’s Royal Cup), and frequently blended with ginger ale or
lemonade.
So what is it, exactly? The ingredients are a mystery, supposedly shared among
only six people in the world. We know it contains gin, but there’s no
indication of how much or what type. Quinine is a component, as well as an
unspecified blend of herbs. Most sources say that a liqueur is involved, but
the kind of liqueur is never revealed. On top of that, the terminology is
confusing---in the opinion of most experts, the bottled version of Pimm’s No. 1
only becomes a Pimm’s Cup when other ingredients are added. Most recipes call
for the addition of soda (ginger ale, club soda, Sprite or tonic) and fruit
(usually slices of lemon, lime or orange). Some versions include a few dashes
of Angostura bitters and/or a shot of Plymouth Gin. If you want to get fancy,
you can garnish the drink with mint leaves, strawberries and slices of
cucumber.
Regardless of your preference, sipping on a Pimm’s Cup is one of the pleasures of a spring or summer afternoon. There are as many recipes for it as there are for steak and kidney pie, but here are the basics:
One part Pimms No. 1
Two parts lemonade
Cucumber spears, mint leaves, orange and lemon slices
Pour the Pimm’s into a Collins glass. Add lemonade and (if desired) a splash of
club soda or Sprite. Stir, but do not shake. Garnish with the cucumber, mint
leaves and fruit. For a Pimm’s Royal, use Champagne in place of the lemonade.
Note: the modern Pimm’s No.1 is bottled at 50 proof, or 25% alcohol by volume,
while older versions contained much higher levels of alcohol. Be careful not to
add too much mixer or ice, which will dilute the drink; conversely, be cautious
with recipes that call for the addition of a shot of gin.